Category Archives: Searles Valley

Posts about things in the Searles Valley

The Fragile Pass: Road Damage and Resilience in Poison Canyon

State Highway 178 is a lifeline for Eastern Kern County, but as any local will tell you, it is a road in constant negotiation with the Earth. This is nowhere more evident than in Poison Canyon, the rugged, steep-walled stretch between Ridgecrest and the Trona/Searles Valley area.

Recent years have been particularly unkind to this corridor. While the “canyon” itself provides a stunning backdrop of stark desert beauty, its geological instability has led to recurring road damage that keeps Caltrans crews on high alert.

The Anatomy of the Damage

The primary culprit for road degradation in Poison Canyon is the extreme cycle of flash flooding and thermal expansion. In this arid environment, the soil lacks the vegetation to hold it in place. When desert monsoons or winter atmospheric rivers hit, the runoff doesn’t soak in; it scours.

• Undermining: Heavy rains frequently wash out the shoulders, undermining the asphalt and leading to “alligator cracking” and eventual lane failure.

• Debris Flows: The steep canyon walls shed rock and sediment directly onto the travel lanes, often forcing emergency closures.

• Pavement Heaving: Extreme temperature swings—from freezing winter nights to 110°F summer days—cause the road surface to expand and contract, creating hazardous dips and ripples.

The Iconic Fish Rocks

For travelers navigating the winding turns of Highway 178, the Fish Rocks serve as both a whimsical landmark and a grim reminder of the canyon’s power. These boulders, painted to look like giant, colorful fish emerging from the desert floor, sit right in the heart of the most vulnerable section of the canyon.

While they are a beloved photo-op, the Fish Rocks are also “ground zero” for road damage reports. Because they sit at a natural drainage point, the area surrounding the rocks is often the first to flood. In recent seasons, crews have had to perform extensive “slope stabilization” near the rocks to prevent the very ground they sit on from sliding into the roadway.

Current Status and Future Repairs

As of early 2026, Highway 178 through Poison Canyon remains a focus of the Caltrans District 9 maintenance schedule. While the road is currently open, motorists should expect:

1. Reduced Speed Zones: Many sections near the Fish Rocks have been reduced to lower speed limits due to uneven pavement and ongoing shoulder reinforcement.

2. One-Way Escorts: Periodic maintenance to clear rockfall debris often requires temporary signal-controlled traffic.

3. Long-Term Mitigation: Plans are being discussed for more permanent culvert upgrades and “rock fall netting” on the steepest cliffs to prevent boulders from reaching the travel lanes.

Safety Tips for Travelers

If you are planning to transit through Poison Canyon, keep these essentials in mind:

• Check the Weather: If there is a flash flood warning for the Spangler Hills or Searles Valley, avoid the canyon entirely.

• Watch the Shoulders: Even if the lane looks clear, the edges of the road can be soft and prone to crumbling after a rain event.

• Respect the Fish: By all means, pull over to see the Fish Rocks, but ensure you are completely off the roadway in a designated turnout; visibility is low for oncoming traffic in the canyon’s tight curves.

 

Poison Canyon is a testament to the challenge of maintaining infrastructure in the Mojave. It remains a beautiful, if temperamental, gateway that requires constant vigilance from both the state and the drivers who traverse it.

Sunlight in the Searles Valley: GlassPoint’s Solar Revolution in Trona

AI created vision of GlassPoint solar steam plant.

AI created vision of GlassPoint solar steam plant.

In the harsh, salt-caked landscape of the Mojave Desert, a historic shift is underway. Trona, California—a town synonymous with a century of industrial mining—is becoming the testing ground for a massive technological leap. In June 2025, GlassPoint, a leader in industrial solar steam, announced a landmark partnership with Searles Valley Minerals (SVM) to deploy 750 megawatts thermal (MWth) of solar power.

This project isn’t just about “going green”; it’s about the survival and modernization of one of America’s most critical mineral operations.

The Challenge: Decarbonizing the “Hard-to-Abate”

Searles Valley Minerals has operated in Trona for over 150 years, extracting essential minerals like boron, soda ash, and lithium from the brine of Searles Lake. These minerals are the backbone of industries ranging from glass and detergents to fertilizers and high-tech electronics.

However, the process is incredibly energy-intensive. Traditionally, SVM has relied on coal and natural gas to generate the massive amounts of steam required for mineral processing. As coal prices rise and environmental regulations tighten, the facility faced a double threat to its economic viability and its carbon footprint.

The Technology: Solar in a Box

GlassPoint’s solution for Trona is their proprietary Enclosed Trough technology. Unlike traditional solar panels that generate electricity, GlassPoint uses mirrors to generate direct heat.

  1. The Greenhouse Design: The system places large, lightweight curved mirrors inside agricultural-style glasshouses. This “enclosure” is the secret to its success in the desert. It protects the mirrors from the fierce Mojave winds and abrasive sand, allowing them to be much thinner and cheaper than outdoor alternatives.
  2. Robotic Maintenance: Automated robots clean the exterior of the glasshouses at night, ensuring maximum sunlight penetration with minimal water use—a critical factor in the arid Searles Valley.
  3. Molten Salt Storage: For the first time, this project will integrate GlassPoint’s Unify storage system. By using liquid salts to store thermal energy during the day, the facility can continue to deliver steam 24/7, providing the “baseload” power necessary for continuous industrial operations.

Impact: Shutting Down California’s Last Coal Plants

The environmental and economic stakes of the Trona project are high. The first phase of the project aims to:

  • Decommission Coal: The 750 MWth installation is designed to begin the process of shutting down two coal-fired power plants—the last of their kind in California.
  • Carbon Reduction: The project is expected to slash carbon emissions by up to 500,000 metric tons per year.
  • Economic Sovereignty: By lowering energy costs from “day one,” the project helps ensure that SVM remains competitive against international suppliers, protecting over 600 local jobs in Trona.

A Global Milestone

With this project, GlassPoint has solidified its position as the dominant player in the $444 billion industrial process heat market. While they have successfully deployed massive projects in Oman and Saudi Arabia, the Trona facility represents their most significant U.S. deployment to date.

For the residents of Trona and the wider mining industry, the partnership proves that even the most “hard-to-abate” industrial sectors can transition to renewable energy—provided the technology is as rugged and cost-effective as the environment it operates in.

Project Quick Facts:

  • Location: Trona, CA (Searles Valley)
  • Capacity: 750 MWth
  • Primary Partner: Searles Valley Minerals (SVM)
  • Key Technology: Enclosed Trough mirrors + Unify ternary salt storage
  • Project Goal: Replace coal-based steam with zero-carbon solar steam

Trona Railway Reduces Operations

In the high desert of San Bernardino County, the rhythmic sound of the Trona Railway’s vintage SD40 locomotives has long served as the heartbeat of Searles Valley. However, that rhythm is slowing. As of early 2026, a “perfect storm” of economic and regulatory pressures has forced Searles Valley Minerals (SVM) to implement massive cutbacks, leading to a significantly reduced schedule for the historic short-line railroad.

The Catalyst: Plant Idling and Layoffs

The downturn began in earnest in February 2026, when Searles Valley Minerals announced the idling of its Argus and Trona plants. Citing a combination of global market saturation—specifically the “dumping” of low-cost soda ash from overseas—and California’s stringent regulatory environment, the company issued WARN Act notices to over 300 employees, roughly 55% of its workforce.

While the Westend facility remains operational, the mothballing of the Argus plant has removed the primary demand for the coal and soda ash shipments that once filled the Trona Railway’s manifests.


Impact on Trona Railway Operations

The Trona Railway (TRC), which operates a 30.6-mile line between the mining complex and the Union Pacific interchange at Searles Junction, has been forced to adapt to the following changes:

  • Reduced Frequency: Once a daily operation, the TRC has shifted to an “ad-hoc” or “as-needed” schedule. Local reports and rail enthusiasts have noted that coal trains, formerly a staple of the line, have virtually disappeared as the plant transitions away from coal-fired power.

  • Shifting Commodities: With the Argus plant idled, the railway is pivoting to focus on boron and minerals from the Westend plant. Boron’s recent classification as a U.S. Critical Mineral provides a slim silver lining, potentially stabilizing a baseline of rail traffic for national security interests.

  • Infrastructure & Equipment: Plans for new Tier 4 locomotives have reportedly been paused or cancelled due to the loss of funding and the sudden drop in operational demand. The iconic “tunnel motor” locomotives continue to run, but far less frequently.


A Community in Transition

The reduction in rail and mining activity is more than a corporate shift; it is an existential threat to the town of Trona.

“In Trona, the company is the town,” noted one local resident. “They support the schools and provide the water. When the trains stop running, the lights start to

Local schools are already bracing for an enrollment “death spiral” as families relocate to find work. The railway’s reduced schedule is the most visible indicator of this contraction, signaling a transition from a booming mineral hub to a leaner, more specialized operation.

Looking Ahead: Solar and Survival

Despite the grim outlook, SVM is looking toward a different kind of future. In late 2025, the company partnered with GlassPoint to begin replacing its coal-fired operations with a massive 750 MWth solar thermal project.If successful, this could eventually lower energy costs enough to make California mineral production competitive again.

For now, however, the Trona Railway remains in a state of watchful waiting, its reduced schedule a somber reflection of a valley fighting to remain “Trona Strong.”

Patricia Louise Davis

Patricia Louise Davis 1935-2024

A giant in the history of education in the Indian Wells and Searles Valleys of California, Patricia (Pat) Louise (Alexander) Davis passed away on Sunday, September 22, 2024 at the Red Cliffs Post Acute Care Center in Grand Junction, Colorado. Pat, 89 years old, departed this world peacefully after a short illness, attended by her hospice nurse and family.

Pat was born on March 14, 1935 to Myron R. Alexander and Rosina Eleanor (Piquette) Alexander in Canon City, Colorado. She spent the first four years of her life in Westcliffe, Colorado where her father Myron ran the local newspaper.

In 1939, Pat and her parents moved to Winlock, Washington, where she assisted her father in his newspaper and printing business. Pat said that she learned her ABCs while typesetting. She spent the remainder of her childhood there.

Pat graduated high school in 1953 from St. Mary’s Academy in Toledo, Washington, and went on to obtain a pre-law degree in 1958 with a minor in Education from Gonzaga University in Spokane, Washington. During her time at Gonzaga University she took a year to study at the University of Austria in Vienna, Austria. She took full advantage of that opportunity and toured Europe.

In 1958, at the age of 23, Pat arrived in the Indian Wells Valley from Gonzaga University. Her contributions to life in the High Desert of California began as a History and Honors English teacher at Burroughs High School (BHS). She was, at the time, BHS’ youngest teacher. While there she became the advisor for the El Burro yearbook and the school newspaper the Blockbuster and served as a guidance counselor. The 1960-61 El Burro was co-dedicated to Miss Patricia Alexander and Mr. Charles Vollmer.

While teaching at Burroughs she also worked as a freelance journalist for the local papers, the Rocketeer and the Valley Independent, as well as for the Sacramento Bee, the San Bernardino Sun, the Bakersfield Californian, and three radio stations.

In 1963 she took a year off to teach in Rotorua and Otorohanga, New Zealand. Upon returning from that adventure she met her future husband, noted China Lake Physicist Fred H. Davis, in 1965 on a blind date. Four days later Fred proposed, and Pat accepted saying, “What took you so long?” At the time Fred was the Head of the Devices and Techniques Branch of the Research Department at the Naval Ordinance Test Station (NOTS), China Lake.

On Saturday, July 10th, 1965, they were married at the NOTS All Faith Chapel, two months from the day they met. Shortly thereafter Pat and Fred settled down in what was to be their life-long home in the desert between Ridgecrest and Inyokern, the Amberglow Ranch.

In 1968 Pat, Susie Basden, and Cathy Hayes began teaching Continuation High School at the Grace Lutheran Church. Soon after, the forerunner of the Sierra Sands School District, the Kern Union High School District appointed her a coordinator and in the early 1970s made her the principal when it became the Sierra Sands District. With a teacher to student ratio of 1:15 the students flourished at what was to ultimately become Mesquite High School. Pat was instrumental in the effort to design and construct the current Mesquite facilities which were completed in 1978, the year after she left her position there as principal.

At Mesquite Pat was called the “Benevolent Dragon Lady” by the students, a nickname she claimed with pride. By the time she left Mesquite, it had grown from 18 to 170 students. The Medical Vocational class they started eventually became the nursing program at Cerro Coso Community College, and the Parenting and Child Care course pioneered there was one of the first of 13 such courses in the State of California.

After departing from Mesquite, Pat went to the Trona School District to be a Counselor and English Teacher. She eventually took over their Independent Study Program and the continuation school Desert Holly High School. Said Pat of her work as a counselor and head of the two continuation high schools “I just wanted to get the kids headed in the right direction.”

Upon her retirement in 1993, Pat was quoted as saying, “When I came to Burroughs High School in 1958 I was the youngest teacher. Now it’s time to leave it to the younger teachers. I prefer to go out while I can still stand.”

The Amberglow ranch, a 12-Acre pistachio farm with 1,700 trees, became the full-time employment of Pat and her husband Fred and when Fred passed away in 1993, she ran the Ranch single-handedly.

In May of 2023, after agreeing to the Indian Wells Valley Ground Water Authority (GA) requirement that she stop farming, and not wanting to see her Ranch wither and die, she sold Amberglow and went home to Colorado to enjoy her remaining time with her family.

Pat loved camping and traveled extensively with friends and family. Over the course of her life she traveled across the United States in her R.V., and visited China, Russia, South America, Australia, New Zealand, Europe, and Turkey.

Pat loved to entertain, and hosted dinners, parties, events, galas, and weddings at Amberglow Ranch. Her Fourth of July and Christmas Parties were legendary, and her decorations for Christmas were dazzling.

Pat was a member of more than 33 years of the Delta Kappa Gamma Society International: Delta Beta Chapter, and was involved in numerous community organizations including the Board of the Ridgecrest Regional (Community) Hospital, Altrusa, and the Woman’s Auxiliary to the Commissioned Officers Mess (WACOM). Pat received a Paul Harris Fellow Award from the Rotary Club of China Lake in recognition of her years of public service, both professionally and as a volunteer.

Pat was a devoted Christian and a member of the Saint Ann’s Parish in Ridgecrest, California. She was gregarious, generous, well-read, well-traveled, eccentric, adventurous, and being bigger than life. Pat loved her family, friends, students, and her dogs.

Following cremation, Pat will be buried next to her beloved Husband Fred in the Ula Cemetery in Westcliffe, Colorado. A Grave Side Service will be held at the Ula Cemetery in the spring of 2025.

The Tufa House Not! – Is it Tufa or Volcanic Rock?

I recently ran across an article in the Ridgecrest News Review,  Community of Trona, the home of several museums by Laura Quezada. One of the things Laura mentions in her article was the Tufa House that was donated to the Searles Valley Historical Society by Robert Schuette.  This caught my interest because I had never heard of the Tufa House before but I have heard the name, Schuette, (pronounced “Shooty”) so I sent Bill Schuette, class of 1958, an email to ask him what he knew about the Tufa House.

Bill wrote back and told me that the house was once owned by his grandmother from 1943 to 1960 and that originally it was on homesteaded land on the other side of the Argus Range that was taken over by the Navy when they took over the airfield from the Army Air Force and expanded it into a ordinance testing area.

Henry F. W. Schuette moved the Schuette family from the Los Angeles area to Inyokern, near China Lake, sometime between 1916 and 1930. He worked on the Los Angeles aqueduct project. Henry F. W. and his wife, Johanna, were granted a homestead (by the US government) near of the railroad head known as Brown, on China Lake.  In the 1920 US Census Henry is listed as a famer with a stock ranch in Kern county. By 1930 the family had moved to Inyo to an area was described as Township 4 in the 1930 US census. In researching BLM land records I found that Henry homesteaded 160 acres of land in 1916. I will have to do more research because it is common for additional homestead land to be acquired by other family members.

Henry and Johanna had five children: George, Mildred, Henry, Emily and Frederick. Henry F. W. and his children worked the homestead together during the great depression years. He was employed by the Westend Chemical plant on Searle’s Lake, 25 miles from China Lake. Henry died from appendicitis in 1941. The family continued to improve the homestead until the US government took the property by eminent domain to build the Naval Ordinance Test Station on China Lake. This became a weapons test site for Cal Tech during and after WWII. The Rock House, built by the Schuette’s, was moved from the homestead (by the US government) to its current Argus location in Searle’s Valley.

What is made of? I’m eager to find out. Perhaps the SVHS can ask someone for the Searles Lake Gem and Mineral Society to examine it. Its appearance in the photo makes me think it is Tufa.

I have much more research to do so check back to learn what I find.

James Hunter 1938-2024

James “Jim’ Hunter — Class of 1956

Jim Hunter’s Graveside service is Saturday, June 22, 2024 at 10 am at the Searles Valley Cemetery. Following the service is a potluck at Trona Elks. Family and friends are welcome. In lieu of flowers, the family would like donations made to Tunnels to Towers Foundation at T2T.org or a organization of your choice.

Jim’s family moved from Oklahoma to Trona in 1952. Jim married Ellinor Crossley from the class of 1958.  In 1998 Jim marred Sharon Sessions from the class of 1959. She passed away in 2019.

https://www.hollandlyons.com/obituary/james-hunter

Linda (Pipkin) Cox — Class of 1965

I’m also sad to report that Gail’s cousin, Linda (Pipkin) Cox of Trona has also passed- the same day.  — Marilyn Walker McKee

Linda Cox left this world on April 1st, 2021 at the young age of 74. To say that she will be missed is an understatement. To put into words the story of her life is a daunting task, but one of the most important life lessons she was able to provide her family was the ability to persevere in the face of darkness and to make the best out of any situation no matter how easy or difficult.

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