Tucked away in the rugged Argus Range of the Mojave Desert, Homewood Canyon is one of the Searles Valley’s best-kept secrets. While the valley floor is famous for its shimmering salt flats and the alien landscape of the Trona Pinnacles, Homewood Canyon offers a different vibe entirely: a high-desert retreat with a rich mining history and a surprisingly tight-knit community.

A Landscape of Granite and Sage

As you turn off Trona Road and head west into the canyon, the scenery shifts rapidly. You leave behind the industrial silhouettes of the mineral plants and climb into a world of massive monzonite boulders and high-desert scrub.

The elevation gain provides two things that are precious in the Searles Valley:

1. Lower Temperatures: It’s often significantly cooler in the canyon than on the valley floor.

2. Expansive Views: From many vantage points, you can look back across the basin to see the vast expanse of Searles Lake and the Slate Range beyond.

From Mining Claims to Desert Homes

The history of Homewood Canyon is deeply rooted in the search for gold and minerals. In the early 20th century, the Argus Range was peppered with small-scale mines. Over time, these mining camps evolved into a residential community.

Today, the canyon is home to a mix of full-time “desert rats” and weekenders looking to escape the hustle of Los Angeles or Ridgecrest. The architecture is as eclectic as the residents—you’ll find everything from vintage cabins and mobile homes to modern off-grid retreats.

Living on the Edge (Literally)

Life in Homewood Canyon isn’t for the faint of heart. It’s a place for people who value autonomy and silence.

• Wildlife: It’s common to spot wild burros (descendants of the old miners’ pack animals), kit foxes, and the occasional bighorn sheep.

• The “Trona” Connection: While Homewood feels worlds apart, it relies on the nearby town of Trona for basic services. However, the canyon maintains its own distinct identity—quieter, rockier, and a bit more elevated.

Things to Do

If you’re visiting or passing through, Homewood Canyon serves as a fantastic basecamp for exploration:

A Note for Visitors

Homewood Canyon is a residential area. While the surrounding Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land is open for exploration, it’s important to respect private property and stay on designated trails. The desert is a fragile ecosystem; as the saying goes, “Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints.”

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In the winter of 1849, a group of weary emigrants stood on the edge of a shimmering white expanse in the California desert. To their salt-stung eyes, it looked like a frozen lake or a field of snow. In reality, it was the dry bed of Searles Lake—a place that would offer no water for their parched throats, but would eventually change the industrial history of the American West.

The Fatal “Shortcut”

The story of the ’49ers in Searles Valley began with a map. While resting in Salt Lake City, a group of roughly 100 wagons, fearing the fate of the Donner Party, decided to bypass the high Sierras by taking a southern route. A young man showed them a hand-sketched map of a “shortcut” that promised to shave 500 miles off their journey to the gold fields.

This route led them directly into the jaws of Death Valley. After weeks of suffering, the group split. The “Jayhawkers” and the “Bennett-Arcan” party struggled over the Panamint Range and descended into the neighboring Searles Valley in January 1850.

Thirst and Despair

As the pioneers entered Searles Valley, their situation was critical. Their oxen were dying, and their water barrels were empty. When they first caught sight of the white floor of Searles Lake, many rushed forward, hoping for a freshwater oasis. Instead, they found a bitter, alkaline crust.

The journals of the survivors describe a scene of utter exhaustion. The Jayhawkers were forced to burn their wagons to cure the meat of their dying oxen, continuing westward on foot. One member of the party, a man named Mr. Fish, perished from exhaustion nearby—his name still marking Fish Canyon in the Slate Range.

The Heroic Rescue

Among these ’49ers were William Lewis Manly and John Rogers. Realizing the families in the Bennett-Arcan party could not survive much longer, these two young men trekked over 250 miles on foot to Mission San Fernando to fetch supplies.

On their return trip, they passed back through Searles Valley, leading the starving families toward safety. As they climbed the final ridge of the Panamint Mountains and looked back at the valley of their suffering, someone famously whispered, “Goodbye, Death Valley,” giving the region its name.

From Gold to Borax

While the ’49ers of 1849 saw Searles Valley only as a barrier between them and the gold mines, the valley held a different kind of “gold.” One of the men in a prospecting party years later, John W. Searles, remembered the strange white crystals he had seen while struggling for survival as a young man.

In 1862, Searles returned to the valley and identified the crystals as borax. He founded the San Bernardino Borax Mining Company, utilizing the legendary “20-mule teams” to haul the mineral out of the desert. The path blazed by the desperate feet of the ’49ers eventually became the highway for a multi-million dollar mining industry.

Legacy

Today, the Trona Pinnacles and the dry lake bed serve as a stark reminder of the 1849 ordeal. The Searles Valley Historical Society maintains markers at the “Slate Range Crossing,” where the Jayhawkers made their escape. What was once a landscape of near-certain death for the ’49ers is now recognized as one of the most unique geological sites in the world—a “chemical storehouse” discovered by men who were simply trying to stay alive

The story of potash—a potassium-rich salt essential for global agriculture—is a fascinating tale of geopolitics, hidden cartels, and a dusty California lake bed that became a strategic bastion for American independence.

The German Stranglehold: The Kalisyndikat

Before the First World War, Germany held a near-absolute global monopoly on potash. This dominance was rooted in the massive subterranean deposits of the Stassfurt salt mines in Saxony.

Recognizing the mineral’s value as a critical fertilizer component, the German government orchestrated the Kalisyndikat (Potash Syndicate). This state-sanctioned cartel controlled production levels and set global prices. By 1910, Germany produced roughly 95% of the world’s potash.

For the United States, this was a dangerous dependency. American farmers were essentially beholden to German industrial policy to keep their soil fertile.

The Great War and the Fertilizer Crisis

When World War I broke out in 1914, the British naval blockade severed German exports. Suddenly, the price of potash in the U.S. skyrocketed from $35 to nearly $500 per ton.

This “Potash Famine” sparked a desperate domestic search. The U.S. Geological Survey scrambled to find local sources, leading them to the scorching Mojave Desert and a unique geological anomaly: Searles Lake in Trona, California.

The Rise of Trona

Unlike the solid rock mines in Germany, Trona’s potash was dissolved in a complex, multi-layered subterranean brine.

• 1914-1916: The American Trona Corporation (the precursor to Searles Valley Minerals) struggled with the chemistry required to separate potash from other salts like borax and soda ash.

• The Breakthrough: Engineers developed a “fractional crystallization” process. By the end of WWI, the Trona plant was one of the few American operations successfully producing potash at scale, helping to stabilize the domestic agricultural market.

Interwar Sabotage and WWII

After WWI, Germany regained control of its mines, and together with French deposits in Alsace, formed a new international cartel. They aggressively slashed prices to “dump” potash on the American market, aiming to bankrupt burgeoning U.S. operations like those in Trona.

The Trona plant survived this economic warfare through sheer technical innovation and diversification—selling borax and soda ash to stay afloat when potash prices were suppressed.

By the time World War II loomed, the U.S. was no longer helpless. The lessons learned at Searles Lake had led to:

1. Technological Maturity: The “Trona Process” was refined and highly efficient.

2. New Discoveries: Knowledge gained in California helped geologists identify the massive potash beds in Carlsbad, New Mexico.

When the 1940s brought a second total cessation of German imports, the American potash industry didn’t blink. Trona and the newer New Mexico mines provided 100% of the Allied needs, ensuring that “food would win the war.”

Legacy of the Desert

Today, the mining operations in Trona stand as a monument to resource security. What began as a desperate attempt to break a German monopoly evolved into a cornerstone of American industrial chemistry. The “Trona Process” proved that even the most complex brines could be conquered with enough engineering grit.